DIY Enclosures

DIY Enclosure Tips

Subwoofers work best when mounted into the correct enclosure (also called a “box”). The enclosure is designed to hold enough volume of air to prevent subwoofer “choking”. The space inside is also built to create resonance at specific bass frequencies (tuning).

Sealed enclosures have only one hole where the subwoofer is mounted. Enclosures can have an extra opening called a “port”. Ports allow air to move into the enclosure to replace the air the subwoofer pulls out.

The basic designs below show you how to build a DIY sub enclosure for any SoundQubed subwoofer. We recommend sealed enclosures for HDS, or Audioque SDC subwoofers. Ported enclosures will work well for any sub, including the HDC and HDX subwoofers.
Note: All ported enclosures are tuned at 35hz, and incorporate 45 degree corners to help with structure and to cut down on any loading issues that could occur.

DIY Enclosure FAQs

Q: What makes this different than one of the many inexpensive enclosures I can buy pre-built?
A: These are specifically designed and tuned for our woofers. They have the port area, internal area and port length needed to supply these large woofers with the air they demand and offer bracing to help stabilize the enclosure.
Q: I don’t have the tools necessary what do I do?
A: You can print off the sheet, take it to any home improvement store and have them cut the sheets for you.
Q: What will I need to finish my enclosure?
A: You will need wood glue, a brad nailer or a drill and wood screws, clamps, a face mask (recommended) and some muscle. If you don’t have a brad nailer you could hand nail as well. We suggest #8 wood screw at least 2 1/4″ long.
A: Lay your glue bead across all edges that connect and press firmly together. Don’t worry about excess glue at this point it can be wiped away after you clamp the box together. We suggest getting clamps like these. Make sure to clamp in a # pattern.
Q: I don’t know how many nails/screws to use!
A: No worries there isn’t a page in your science book that tells us how many and where. Once the glue has settled for 10-15 minutes or longer depending on your weather conditions go around the connecting edges and make a mark every inch to two inches. Each tick is where you will place a screw or nail. Once you build a couple you’ll be able to slap the nails/screws in by judgement.
Q: Uh… One of my nails/screws broke through the other side.
A: It happens to the best of us. If you can remove it if not leave it and bend off the end that is sticking out and fill it with a wood glue and saw dust mix or or epoxy.
Q: I’ve got it glued and screwed, now what?
A: Assuming you had the circle cut out done at the hardware store or you have already done it with a router or a jig saw you are now ready to drop in your woofer(s). Wire them up and place them in the box, center them to your liking and screw them in.
Q: I went to put the woofer in and noticed there’s no outlet for the wires to run to my amp.
A: Drill a 5/16th – 5/8th inch hole depending on the wire thickness and amount of wires in the area you want the wires to protrude from, run the wires through and fill any open space with epoxy or silicone.
Note: You can cut in plastic wire terminal cup but we don’t recommend it – they add resistance and usually fail.
Q: I was mounting the woofer and I accidentally poked a hole in the rubbery foam thing?
A: The rubber foam thing is what we call a surround. It is an essential part of the woofer and damage can cause failure but normally a little pin hole from a screw won’t make a difference as long as we take care of. The at-home fix: Using black silicone squeeze a little bit onto a piece of cardboard now dab your finger in it and spread an even amount on the front making sure there are no high spots now do this for the back. Once it dries you should be good to go.

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