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High Performance Enclosure

We don’t believe in the tiny sub box theory. If you are looking for
tiny sound, get a tiny sub and put it in a tiny box. Be happy. If you
are looking for real bass, you need to have a real box.

In order
to get true high performance, you have to make the most of the available
airspace you have. To do otherwise is wasting your time, energy and
money. Don’t try to fit a larger speaker in a box that is better suited
for the next size down. Our subs all have the same amount of throw, the
same force available, and the smaller sub in the right space will
outperform the larger sub in too small an airspace.

The first step
in getting major bass in your vehicle is to allocate the space for your
enclosure. If you really want to flex some sheet metal, the old adage
applies, “there is no substitute for cubic inches”. The more space you
make available, the higher the potential spl.

You don’t have to use a large amount of enclosure space to make a loud system; loud can be done with a single SoundQubed
sub. The amount of loud needs to be determined as you figure out what
space you plan to give up. Really loud bass, where you have to scream at
your passengers, can be done on a single or double woofer setup. Stupid
loud bass, where there is no point in trying to communicate in the
vehicle, takes more space and bigger/more subs. F@#$ing crazy loud bass,
where it is impossible for the car next to you to communicate inside
his vehicle, takes even more space, even more subs and a gazillion watts
of power.

A few tips on what to pay attention to when determining the box shape:

If
you plan to use a rear firing setup in a trunk car, make sure your box
doesn’t seal off the trunk from the passenger compartment. You need to
leave some space for the waves to pass back into the interior of the
car. Either make the box as low as possible so the wave passes over the
box and enters the cabin via the seatback and rear deck, or reduce the
width of the box so the wave can pass to the side and into the car’s
interior. A big, giant box may make your trunk extremely loud, but all
you’ll hear is muffled rattle if the box takes up the whole space behind
the rear seat and under the rear deck.

If you have a hatchback car, keep the box as far back in the vehicle as possible. Keep the port as far to the rear as possible.

Speaker Box Construction:

A strong box is essential in a high output system. Your box should be
free from air leaks and braced internally if the volume exceeds 2 cuft.
Internal cross bracing is far more effective in making a rigid box than
doubling the wood thickness. Doubling the wood thickness adds a great
deal of weight to your vehicle, and the added wall stiffness is less
than stiffness added by cross bracing. Try to cross the braces at the
same point so that they add strength to each other.

The inside
seams of the enclosure can be a source of air leaks and potential
weakness if the joints are not cut perfectly. One way to strengthen
these joints is to use gluing cleats on the inside seams.

 

Need Help? Contact us today with your tech support questions or any other inquiries.

Posted on 2 Comments

2 thoughts on “High Performance Enclosure

  1. 9.0cu ft box currently in my 98 yukon thats including port volume, 16sqin of port area per cu ft. Of box volume. Problem is my hdc4.18 flexes the 3/4inch mdf like ive never seen, can u please show pictures of an example of an ideal braced box, siliconed and woodglued all seams inside box and 3inch screws are placed every inch apart. Do you recommend rounding the outside entrace to the port aswell?

  2. What kind of box you recommend for 2 hds3 12″ in a suv thanks

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