Installing your mono amp and setting your gains – The simple way


This article will help guide you through running the wires from your amp kit and installing your mono amplifier properly. Proper installation of your amplifier is important to avoid damage to your subwoofer / amplifier, and ensures that everything sounds great in the end.

Items Needed for install

  • Allen Wrenches
  • Gain Knob
  • Amplifier
  • Amp Kit
  • Woofer (in a box)
  • Panel Poppers
  • Wire crimper/cutters
  • Wrench or Ratchet with sockets (for your battery terminal)


Power and Ground: Wire placement

Lets take a moment to evaluate where you will be running your wires (Power, Ground, Remote Turn-On, RCAs, Remote Gain Knob), and the best location for your amplifier.Ensure that you keep your power and RCAs separated as running them together has the potential to cause noise that you will hear through your speakers. If you are unable to run them independently try to space them as far apart as possible.

First locate your ground; We suggest finding a solid chassis ground and urge against using seat belt bolts due to safety hazards. Make sure your chosen location is free of paint or rust. If there is paint or rust present sand the area until it is nice and shiny then clean thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol or a cleaning agent. Once this is done bolt the ground eyelet to the vehicle – DO NOT use self taping screws.

Next you’ll install your fuse – making sure that it is within 12″ of the battery then you will run your power wire from the fuse block to the input power of the amplifier. You will want to run this through a grommet in your vehicle’s firewall. If you are unable to find a grommet you can always make a new hole and add your own grommet. When doing this always make sure to trace out where the drill bit is going to go as you don’t want to hit anything on the other side of the firewall. Attempt to make the power connection as short of a distance as possible. Too long of a wire may cause loss of amperage.

Lastly run your remote turn-on, RCAs, and remote gain knob (if applicable). All three of these will be run to the front of the vehicle near the head unit. The remote turn-on needs to be connected to a 12v power source such as the accessory on at the back of the head unit. This is what wakes the amp on and allows it to obtain power from your charging system. It’s critical that this wire is hooked up to a wire that only sees power when the vehicle is turned on or you will drain your battery. Once you have everything hooked up make sure to power on your system and make sure the amp comes on and has output before tidying up and putting the vehicle back together. (These same steps are used when installing a multi-channel amp)

Amplifier Settings:

Note: This option is the faster and easier option, but common sense and experience is key.

Set your Low Pass Filter (LPF) between 90-100Hz.You will then set your Subsonic to 30Hz. These settings are assuming your box is tuned between 35-45Hz. Ensure that your amp is set to master (if applicable).The Bass Boost should be off, as it is used to increase output but causes distortion to happen faster. Make sure your gain is all the way down (Remote Bass Knob to ¾).On your head unit, access your Equalizer (EQ) settings and bass controls making certain that they are all at 0. If your amplifier has a master, slave switch make sure you switch it to master if running it on its own.

Choose a CD to play, preferably a recorded CD and not an mp3 due to possible distortion. A USB stick will work great too if a CD is not available. Turn the head unit volume three-quarters of the way up. Take your Remote Bass Knob and watch as slowly turn the gain up on the amp as you will notice the clipping indicator light on the knob begin to flicker as the frequencies in the music change. A clipped signal will cause the voice coil on your subwoofer to burn, therefore the clipping indicator light should not be allowed to glow solid or flicker continuously on constant playing, or stay red on transients.


We understand there are many methods and other steps that come with installing a system that some might prefer to use. Though we have found these to be the easiest for the newcomer Basshead! If you have questions please contact us.

Need Help? Contact us today with your tech support questions or any other inquiries.

Break In – What, Why and How

AFTER ~16 hours of play
Piston Diameter = 209.6 mmPiston Diameter = 209.6 mm
f(s)= 48.45 Hzf(s)= 42.39 Hz
R(e)= 1.77 ΩR(e)= 1.78 Ω
Z(max)= 18.86 ΩZ(max)= 13.89 Ω
Q(ms)= 7.833Q(ms)= 5.38
Q(es)= 0.813Q(es)= 0.792
Q(ts)= 0.737Q(ts)= 0.690
V(as)= 9.281 liters (0.328 cubic feet)V(as)= 15.800 liters (0.558 cubic feet)
L(e)= 0.72 mHL(e)= 0.72 mH
n(0)= 0.12 %n(0)= 0.14 %
SPL= 83.03 1W/1mSPL= 83.71 1W/1m

Woofer break in fact or fiction.

The age old question. “DoI really need to break in my subwoofer?”. Well, that depends.Some woofers such as PA and studio may not require this due to having high compliance suspension. These speakers do not see an appreciative difference in performance pre and post break in.On the other hand there are subwoofers such as ours that have what we call ‘low compliance’ (elastic deformation) that require a break in period that will loosen the suspension over the course playing. Long term this will maintain peak performance long beyond the life cycle of a woofer made with looser suspension.Think of it as a fresh built motor. Once you get through your first oil change you’ll see a rise in your gas mileage and you’ll be able to romp on it a little harder,it’s the same concept with our woofers and many others on the market.

Why do we suggest breaking in SoundQubed subwoofers?

Giving your new woofer a few hours of break in will let the spiders loosen up and allow for higher excursion and the ability to play lower frequencies. Along with your T/S parameters changing once the woofer is fully broken in, you are less likely to damage the coil as it will move more freely in the gap which allows for better cooling and less build up of heat.

How can you properly break in a subwoofer?

There are a few different options when it comes to breaking in a subwoofer. It’s highly-recommended to have a steady load on your subwoofer during the break-in period. Option I and Option II both help loosen up the suspension however the woofers will keep loosening up over the duration of their lifetime! Keep in mind that music tracks with sporadic or intermittent bass won’t do the trick

Option I: The most common and easiest method; Install your woofer as you normally would. Play your favorite music at low to medium volume and 1/2 gain for 2-3 weeks After a couple of days you will begin to hear the woofer start to break in and get cozy in its new home. As the Fs drops and the suspension loosens up you’ll notice that you will get lower and louder with less power. After 2-3 weeks you can set your gains accordingly and listen at normal levels.

Option II: This option is a little more in depth and requires some nifty tools but yields a much faster break in. We do this by free airing the woofer (playing the woofer without an enclosure).

Tools Needed:
• Tone Generator, your phone will work for this; download a tone generator app from your app store.
• 3.5mm jack to RCA so you can plug your phone directly into your amplifier.
• A solid mounting surface for your woofer. Do NOT free air your woofer with the back-plate against a surface as the woofer can’t breath. – We suggest mounting your woofer in a piece of wood with enough area on either side so you can suspend it between to chairs or tables. Make sure you weigh the sides down so it can’t walk off.
• An Amplifier.
• A Clean signal. You can mount your SoundQubed amplifier and use the remote knob to see this signal.
• 8-16hrs of free time.

Now that you have gathered your tools you can begin the break in process. Play a sine sweep of 30hz-60hz if your app can not do this play a 40hz tone for the duration of the break in. We suggest 8-16 hours for a solid break in time. You can set it with a good clean signal overnight. Once this is done you are ready to install and be on your way.

NOTE: During Option II Please check frequently to make sure your woofer is staying cool aka stir frequently.

What can happen if you do not properly break in your subwoofer?

If you don’t allow for a break in period you could run into one of the issues below.

• Burned or unwound coil: Burned or unwound coils can be caused by the buildup of excess heat and a distorted signal. Stiff spiders leave you with less suspension travel known as your Xmax ( Linear mechanical movement), we call it excursion in the real world. This coupled with excessive power causes the coil to heat up in the gap as it unable to move enough to allow the heat to escape. You can also run into a distorted signal a lot faster due to the woofers suspension fighting as you try to turn the knob to 11. Which will also cause your coil to heat up very quickly.

• Ripped or torn suspension: You can put a lot of strain on your new parts if you do not break them in. You risk tearing the suspension from the triple joint or basket landing causing mechanical failure. You will also notice that you run into distortion a lot faster on a new stiff woofer than one that is broke in as the suspension fights back.

*The Thiele Small parameters were measured on the HDS310-D4 above before break in and after a ~16 hour continuous play period to show us how the changes correspond to real world movement. The movement pictured above is what we call excursion. This was measured with a stroboscope which allowed us to see the cycles of the moving parts. This works by “slowing” down the reciprocation of the woofer by matching the frequency being played (40hz in this case) with a series of corresponding flashes of lights at 40 flashes per second. You can do this at home by using a 20hz tone and playing with your camera frame rate.

Need Help? Contact us today with your tech support questions or any other inquiries.