Speaker Wiring Guide

Gee Nunn's (6) HDX312

There’s more than one way to get the desired impedance level to your amplifier(s), and its important when you are first designing your system to plan out the different options.

What impedance your amplifier performs best at determines what speaker impedance combinations will work. This guide shows how to wire the speakers together to get to the desired result.

Defects are problems caused by the way a product was put together during manufacturing. These can show up even when a product is only ever used properly at reasonable volume levels.

Spotting a defect is pretty easy for us, so include photos when you fill out the technical support form.

Don’t return a product without getting an RMA number. Your product could get lost without the number written clearly on the box.

If you filled out a form and it’s been 2-3 business days, feel free to call (405) 600-1936 Monday-Friday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. CST.

Our best guess is that it will be 4-6 months before we receive subwoofer orders placed earlier this year. We’ll be adding ETAs to our product status page as we get closer to that timeframe. We also send out updates weekly if you join our email list

Fill out the Repair Parts Form. It gathers all the info we’ll need to help you with recone kits. We verify that we have the necessary parts, then contact you with pricing and turnaround time.

The stock alternator and battery meet the electrical needs of your car’s stock features, and that’s about it.

The draw from a big* audio amplifier – combined with regular vehicle features – runs your battery down faster than the alternator can charge it. This causes the voltage to drop.

Voltage drops damage amps.

Your car needs enough power for stock features, AND your big new amp. To get the extra current you have to upgrade the alternator, add a AGM or lithium battery, and beef up wiring under the hood.

*A “big” amp is anything over 1000 W RMS. Smaller amps are often able to run on a stock electrical system, but upgraded charging never hurts!

We can’t control the correctness of any build. Skill and work quality aren’t the same for every professional. Even a good installer could miss a detail when installing unfamiliar gear.

Since we didn’t choose your installer, you are responsible for the quality you accept from a professional you’ve paid to do a job. Hopefully they have a service warranty!

We aim to help installers of all skill level with our ever-growing Knowledge Base.

Many amps have different “protection” circuits. These circuits have different triggers that will hopefully stop the amp from catastrophic damage.

Your protect light indicates that you might have an electrical issue in your setup that triggered the protection circuitry. This could be a short circuit due to a worn wire, a fusing issue, voltage fluctuations, among other things.

We can help troubleshoot if you’ll fill out the technical support form.

We sold you both products, so there is a very, very small chance you received more than one of the same product with the same defect.

The other thing they have in common is being installed in your system. You’ll need to fill out the technical support form so we can help you fix what’s causing the problem. Be sure to include clear pictures when you fill out the form.

These are specifically designed and tuned for our woofers. They have the port area, internal area and port length needed to supply these large woofers with the air they demand and offer bracing to help stabilize the enclosure.

You can print off the sheet, take it to any home improvement store and have them cut the sheets for you. 

That rubbery foam thing is the surround. It is an essential part of the woofer. Severe damage can require a recone. Normally a small pinhole from a screw is easy to repair to save the sub.

The at-home fix: Using black silicone, squeeze a little bit onto a piece of cardboard. Dab your finger in it and spread an even amount on the top side making sure there are no high spots. Repeat on the underside. Once it dries completely, you should be good to go.

You will need wood glue, a brad nailer or a drill and wood screws, clamps, a face mask, and some muscle. If you don’t have a brad nailer you could hand nail as well. We suggest #8 wood screw at least 2 1/4″ long.

If you don’t have clamps or a brad nailer, you can use ratchet straps or even masking tape to hole the pieces in place while the glue dries.

Squeeze a continuous bead of glue on all the edges that connect. Press them firmly together. Spread any squeeze out along the inside corners with your fingertip. This will help make sure the joint is air tight. Wipe away outside squeeze out once you have it clamped together. Screw the box together after clamping the glued edges.

It happens to the best of us. If you can remove it if not leave it and bend off the end that is sticking out and fill it with a wood glue and sawdust mix or epoxy.

Let the glue dry overnight. Assuming you have circular openings already cut, connect your wiring through those openings according to the appropriate wiring diagram. Next, you’re ready to place your woofers into your circle cutouts.

With the subwoofers in place, align the frame to your liking. Lastly, predrill screw holes and mount the woofer.

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Advanced: If you are venturing into different impedances than shown here, check out the DIY Wiring App